Coi - February 8, 2016
I think I’ve touched briefly upon the fact that during the day I’m a software engineer, though that’s not really germane to the story, the location of my employer is, or was. Up until recently we worked in the Minneapolis Grain Exchange’s North Building, a barren lunch option desert. That should improve once the new Wells Fargo buildings are fully operational, but now that we’ve moved to a different building a little further west, it doesn’t help us. Whereas the skyways and tunnels yielded few options unless you were willing to circumnavigate the city, if you were of the heartier sort, the streets offered some much closer purchase. When I would take to the streets, my feet would more often than not carry me past The Crooked Pint, away from Caribou Coffee, around Subway, and across the street from Sawatdee Thai until I found myself in front of Zen Box Izakaya, checking my phone, hoping it was 11:30 and that there was a bowl of Kimchi Ramen waiting to be ordered.
On a day far busier than usual, the host sat two people at the normally empty, well empty besides me, low bar. After hearing a brief snippet of conversation, and the tingle of tonal familiarity, I turned to see two of my favorite chefs, Jamie Malone and Erick Anderson. Conversation focused on food, San Francisco came up, and Coi* was recommended. *Pronounced “kwa,” not like the fish.
Chefs’ suggestions are typically spot on.
After a morning at Craftsman and Wolves and walking the parks, I figured out public transportation (more to experience the city than to save Uber fees, but that is a side benefit) and made my way to Coi.
Pommes Soufflees with Salt Cod, Bergamot, and Coffee: Amuse with good flavors and welcome texture.
Geoduck Clam with Bibb Lettuce, Lardo, and Buckwheat Crepe: Clean, fresh, a little bit of earthy from the buckwheat. Beautiful and tasty.
Galinette (Tub Gurnard) with Etrog and Osetra Caviar: Beautiful, flavorful, and comprising a variety of textures.
Ocean Trout with Citrus Confit, Chartreuse, and Fines Herbs: Beautiful. Crispy. Bright. Tasty.
Bread and Butter: Great flavor on the bread, inventive plating of the butter.
(sorry for the lines on the pictures below, I blew out the CCD earlier in the day when taking a picture of the Sun’s reflection in a window, it’s evident in low light images to this day)
Fish Ribbons of Lobster Roe in a Lobster Broth: Reminded me of artificial crab in the best nostalgic way ever.
Maine Lobster with Tortellini, Black and Royal Trumpets, and Sauce Maltaise: Good but maybe my least favorite dish of the night, the lobster was a touch too done for my textural sensibilities and the rolled mushrooms were difficult to cut, and a tad toothsome.
Turbot with Winter Vegetables and Buerre Cancalaise: Beautiful, flaky, tasty.
Abalone with Bone Marrow Custard and Black Truffles: A great combination of flavors and textures.
Grapefruit with Pastis Meringue and Black Pepper: So light and refreshing, the meringue enshrouded a scoop of grapefruit ice cream. Very good intermezzo.
Coconut Cannoli with Rhubarb and Hibiscus: A very, very good dessert. Great textures and flavors, loved the treatment on the thin rhubarb.
Almond Cake with Caramel, Candied Preserved Lemon, and Amaretto: Solid. Visually appealing, lots of textures, good flavor.
Mignardises (Petit Fors) including Coconut Macaroon, Beet-Blood Orange Pate de Fruits, Matcha White Chocolate, and a Yuzu Financier: Excellent presentation. Excellent after dessert dessert.
If you find yourself in San Francisco and you’re celebrating a big event, or just want to really splurge on a meal, I definitely echo the recommendation I received.