Spoon & Stable - January 20, 2016

After a much delayed haircut, I found myself trying to figure out where to go for dinner. I was in Northeast, near Betty Danger’s but wasn’t keen on my first time to that establishment being a solo trip. I wasn’t feeling burgers or pizza. Then I remembered there was another new dessert at S&S. That made the decision much easier. I was also keen to try the pheasant before it left the menu. So once again I found myself at the bar. (I live in the northern suburbs and I end up here a bit, especially on weekends, but I fear how often I’d be there if I lived in the North Loop. Dangerous.)

Alas, I missed the pheasant, but the new fowl is pretty damn good.

Amuse of Arancini with truffles and truffle fonduta - great.

Day Boat Scallop Crudo with green apple, shiso, chilies, and a scallion vinaigrette: One of the few dishes that’s been on the menu since day one. Still one of my favorite crudo in town. Good slice on the scallop means it has some texture, some substance, the accompaniments all lend to one another and bring out the subtle sweetness of the scallop.

Dry-Aged Duck Breast with swiss chard, beet, popped amaranth, and braunschweiger: This is the decidedly not foul fowl that replaced the pheasant I was looking forward to. I’m okay with that. Great crisp on the skin, great jus. The popped amaranth brought an extra bit of texture and really subtle malty and nutty notes that paired with the beets’ earthiness. Great.

Milk Chocolate Torte with chestnut mousse, and black walnut ice cream: Not always a chocolate fan, but I thought this was great. The ice cream was really good, lacking the occasional astringency that black walnuts can sometimes impart. The orange gel added a nice brightness that paired great with some of the rich notes of the dessert. 

Petit Fours of Pâtes de Fruits, Macarons, Brittle, Shortbread, and Biscotti: all solid, excellent examples of their respective techniques.