Fond food farewells and feeling irregular.
If you’re an American, on average, you spend 40-44% of your food budget on dining out.[1] (If you spend less than that, don’t worry, I’m doing my best to pull up the curve.) Chances are a not small portion of that goes to an establishment or a few you enjoy and frequent more often than others. I’m not sure there’s a food industry agreed upon threshold for what constitutes a regular, but undoubtedly each proprietor has an eye for those that come in more often than those that rarely visit. Maybe you’re one.
I primarily prefer a plethora of permutations upon my palate, almost as much as alliterations, so I don’t always eat at the same establishments as often as I could. But there are exceptions. Places where I go back again and again. Where I might be a regular. Brunch at Spoon and Stable, Sunday dinners at Mucci’s, early pre-roller derby dinners at Saint Dinette during dark and cold months of the year. Earlier this year my list was longer.
First it was Piccolo.[2] I wasn’t always found in the main dining room, but quarterly you’d probably find me in the back room around a table with other would be oenophiles enjoying thematic wines paired with amazing bites by Doug Flicker and his crew. It actually took me a while to realize they served an amazing menu in its own right, and then I couldn’t get enough of it. That was a sad day in March when it closed.
Then it was Birdie.[3] I loved Birdie. Landon, Jess, T, and Brit; then Jess, T, Brit and Jeff. An amazing group of chefs that put together an equally superlative worthy menu week after week. Some of the most visually appealing dishes enhanced by edible flowers and forage from one of the chef’s gardens. I was there for the beginning and end of this delicious experiment and many great points in between. Also had some of the most beautiful plates by Keith Kreeger. May was made melancholy with this missing.
Strip Club Meat and Fish followed suit. [4] I was personally late to this St. Paul marvel from some of the talent behind Saint Dinette, Bar Brigade, Mucci’s, and Red River Kitchen. It was the kind of place you took friends from out of town, loved ones for celebrations, and yourself when you wanted the kind ear of talented barkeeps that really could divine what you’re in the mood for based upon your answers to a few simple questions. The hugs and camaraderie from owners and chefs were more delectable than their thoroughly enjoyable. Tim and JD are two of the best. This closing robbed some of the joy from July.
Most recently, the Brewer’s Table at Surly plated its last tamale paired with Fiery Hell.[5] I must confess I never ate at Solera while Jorge was there, I seldom find myself dining near what is now wearing the moniker WeDo for “West Downtown.” I don’t attend as much theatre as I’d like, don’t go to many concerts, nor any of the professional sports at Target Center. However, when I found out about the finer dining restaurant at the soon to open destination brewery from Surly, I wanted to go. Admittedly, it was more for the beer and the reputation preceding Linda Haug as a restaurateur. Initially Jorge’s involvement was incidental. Then I dined at Brewer’s Table for the preview after winning a silent auction for a table. I still remember the dish that captured me - octopus with white bean puree. I’ve been a diehard fan of Jorge ever since. I was nigh equally enamored with the rest of the cooking crew and the staff. I went back numerous times during its too brief lifetime. This august establishment left too early in early August.
Each of these establishments spawned talent and creative DNA that I will follow and seek out. To the aforementioned establishments, to Esker Grove, to Grand Cafe, to Tenant, to Peeps Hotbox, to Denver, to kitchens and pop-ups in distilleries, to Chicago, wherever.
[2] http://www.startribune.com/minneapolis-tiniest-four-star-restaurant-piccolo-is-closing/405511936/
[3] http://www.citypages.com/restaurants/birdie-will-close-next-month/420722323