320 Northeast - November 2, 2015
Historically, to me, dinner parties always carried an air of mystery, something that happened to long term couples and their friends, inside circles I wasn’t a part of. It might be something to do with cultural segments that are more proximally related, or transplants that are creating some semblance of a family, or culturally significant, dining experience; whatever it was I was aware of its mythology from the outside and I wanted to experience it myself. Last year I did a carnitas cookout and a couple of dinners for friends, something I want to start again but take to the next level. I went to a friend’s brunch potluck this year which was pretty good fun. But, given my base compunction towards gluttonous Bacchanal pursuits, I wanted more. 320 Northeast is that more.
I was browsing Twitter or Instagram, or listening to the food discussions on 89.3 The Current when I first caught on that there was this semi-secret dining club where a chef and his partner were serving once-a-week dinner party style meals out of their house. Until the city caught wind. To comply with certain restrictions, they packed up and moved their operation to a warehouse with a 5xx address that was conveniently zoned for food as well, but in what I hope is an act of defiance, kept the 320 Northeast name. Upon learning of such an establishment I knew I had to go. I found out where to sign up for the mailing list. I figured after signing up, I’d wait for notification of when the next batch of dinners would be available.
After a while, I forgot that I had signed up. Then one day I got an email that indicated I was approved for the mailing list and another email with the list of the next available dates. Shortly thereafter I got an email receipt for my first experience. About a month and a half separate the time of ticket purchase to the actual date of dinner, if you go for the first dinner in the released block, that has remained consistent.
The first time I went, the table was slightly smaller and only seated the 12 diners, so the host and chef were relegated to standing and moving about the room during the meal, so while it was intimate, it still felt more restaurant than homey dinner party. This time, with a larger table, a love seat against one wall, a few extra chairs scattered about the room, it felt much more homey. There was room for the host and chef to join us for each course.
The peppers, chilies, herbs, ham, and pork bellies dry hanging from the rafters were a nice touch. The ham and pork belly were from a locally acquired pig they just butchered themselves.
Both times I’ve gone the make up of the group was very similar. A young woman with her parents, 4 couples, and me. I didn’t take copious notes the first time, but I remember the young woman was a publisher at one of the local independent book houses and I was seated across. This time it was a hospitalist physician. Both engaging conversationalists.
This time all of the courses were served family style.
Head cheese on toast with mustard aioli and pickles: While not presented in the usual aspic form, and more like a rillette, this head cheese was good, the pickles were a nice flavor boost and the mustard aioli worked as a traditional accompaniment to the rich pork flavor. It was a little large and unwieldy, I think sizing it down to use a baguette crostini would lend to a better presentation and ratio of toppings to vessel.
Roasted Beet Salad with carrots, purple daikon, late season traviso (lettuce), dill, and a dill yogurt sauce: This was a great dish, looked beautiful, tasted better. I used to not like beets, but seeing what can be done with them, besides pickling or making vodka from, I’m quite the fan now. One of the dinner party was gesticulating wildly with a carrot on his fork, and the carrot ended up flying off and coming to rest under the table. After tasting the non-floor carrot, I think he seriously considered eating the errant one.
After this course they had us rotate 2 seats to our right. It was an interesting concept, for some it meant someone new to their left, others someone new to their right, or someone new across from them. Fun.
Slow roasted pork, Lakota squash puree, cider vinegar gastrique and romanesco: Above are the family style plating, and the results when I tried my hand at plating, wishing I’d done a stripe of the puree underneath. This tasted great, the pork was a nice medium, so still a fair amount of moisture in the meat, the romanesco was a great texture. A coworker said my plating ended up looking like a face with some wild green hair. I’m not seeing it.
Poached chestnut crab apples, sweet granola, cranberry jam, and fresh whipped cream: An enjoyable dessert. The tartness of the apple was amplified by the jam, complemented by the sweetness, and balanced by the cream. I could have gone with a slightly longer poach, but it was still really good.
I’m a fan of 320 Northeast and what they’re attempting to do with using in season ingredients, local when possible, putting things to larder when they can. It’s outside the traditional models of food service and I’m always a fan of novelty done well. I think they’re doing it pretty well. Thanks to host Megan, Chefs Matt and Aaron, and all members of the dinner party for an enjoyable evening. I will definitely be back to see how 320 Northeast adapts and matures.