Estelle’s - November 1, 2015
I used to eat at Pig Ate My Pizza (PAMP) quite a bit, I enjoy the pizza, it’s relatively close, and when Surly was still in Brooklyn Center, easy to hop over to after a couple of pints. PAMP is still solid, but a project I’m researching I’m trying to expand the number of restaurants I try, so they’re not as frequent as they used to be. But this isn’t about PAMP. It’s about one of the chefs I met there.
Matt Brown is one of the three Brown brothers that worked in the Travail Collective of Pig, Rookery, and Travail Kitchen and Amusements. Dave and Michael Paul Brown still maintain a perch at Rookery and don the apron at Travail respectively. Matt used to be a fixture at Pig, that’s where I had the privilege of first meeting him, he always greeted you with a big smile, and let the regulars know what was new.
But Matt got married to the lovely Heidi from Harmony. Heidi and him hemmed and hawed before deciding to make Harmony their home. (I don’t know how much hemming and hawing there actually was, I just put that there for alliteration). So, expecting their first born, they decided to head south, about as far south as you can go in Minnesota before you find yourself in Iowa. In July both Estelles were born, the beautiful daughter of Heidi and Matt, and the establishment named after her.
I’d been meaning to head down to check it out, but every weekend is something else; volunteering on Saturdays, beer festivals, brunches with friends. But on a nicer than expected first of November, I decided to head south too. At least for lunch.
Until I read a sign that indicates that a place is up ahead, or I actually arrive, I have a hard time believing it exists, even if people I know and trust have been there. Until I’ve occupied the space, it might as well be an elaborate dream. So when the first sign on US 52 that indicated Harmony was, in fact, a real place and only 15 miles away I was a little giddy.
I walked in to see a few tables occupied and the bar clear save Matt. It’s a great looking space. Bright, open. The placement of the art and layout is very reminiscent of Haute Dish. You walk in from the street, big art on right, booth near art, long bar on right, tables across from bar. The kitchen is as open as you can expect in a diner with the exception of those greasy spoons that have the griddle directly opposite the counter, it’s a great feature that I hope was inspired by his time at PAMP, Rookery, & Travail. Matt and some of the other Travail Collective chefs were some of my first “chef” friends, and when I see my friends, if they’re greeting huggers, we hug. Matt & I are both big guys, so they’re big hugs.
But I didn’t almost drive to the Iowa border just for a hug, I wanted to see what Matt was doing with his food now.
Butternut Squash Soup with sourdough croutons, bacon, pecans, and orange cotton candy: It was nice to see this as the first dish, it’s showy enough that you’re getting a small bit of the Travail experience farther south, and it’s very well executed from a flavor and texture standpoint. The cotton candy doesn’t add as much sweetness as you’d fear. I’d definitely recommend it.
Pork Nuggets of sous vide loin, sweet Asian spices, flash fried, and plated on a sweet soy sauce: While I enjoy the S&P Nugs at Pig Ate My Pizza, these are far superior. Sweet, crunchy, porky, there’s nothing bad about this one. I hope this stays on the menu forever, because I will always be ordering these when I come down.
Fries of red potatoes, blanched in salt, pepper, caraway, and dill, finished with salt and pepper, parmesan, and dill: Solid fries, crisp exterior, soft interior. I’ve mentioned before I’m not a huge fry guy, but I thought these were pleasant and the half order was just the right size. Next time, if I’m eating with someone, I might try to convince them to try the bacon & cheese variation.
Chicken Bacon Sandwich with white American cheese, bacon, and tomato on a Kaiser roll: Solid sandwich. I went with this over a burger because I was headed to Saint Dinette that night and didn’t want to risk being burgered out. Great marinated breast, pleasantly plump & juicy, not over spiced. Really enjoyable, I want try the burger next time, but if I was a regular this would definitely be in the rotation.
Macarons with egg nog buttercream and spiced pecans: While I’m not normally an egg nog fan, I thought these were great. The size of a silver dollar, they’re definitely sharable. I thought the spiced pecans being an both sides, which would normally be on one side so they could seat flat, was an excellent decision; it basically becomes its own display stand. The macaron texture was great: eggshell surface yielding to a soft airy interior foiled by the buttercream, awesome.
Speaking of pecans, if you follow me on Instagram or Twitter, you might have saw that I baked a couple of bourbon pecan pies on Halloween. One pie was for a Twitter friend’s grandfather’s 90th birthday and I made one to try myself, adding chocolate. They were my first pecan pies, I was curious. Back on track, I love to bake and sometimes I’d bring leftovers to PAMP or Travail to give to the crew knowing they last ate at a staff meal hours before. I don’t bake as often I used to, but when I do, I try to keep the tradition alive. So I brought Matt half of the chocolate bourbon pecan pie. Matt really likes pecans, so his eyes lit up when he saw it. I gave another slice to a good friend and the rest, in addition to the extra macaron, to the Saint Dinette crew.
If you’re in the Twin Cities and looking for a reason to drive a couple hours south, Estelle’s is a better reason than most. If you’re a motorcyclist, US-52 south of Rochester looks like it will be a fun ride, and there’s great food in Harmony.
Sometimes you have to go out of your way to see your friends; fly west, cross the ocean, or drive south.
I went south to see a friend and see how his food was doing. I’m glad to say it’s still as playful as ever and makes me wish I, or Matt and his food, were a little closer.