4 Bells - December 18, 2015
We’re in that weird interlude where last week, and last month, are still last year. Another few days before the prior leaves that state of discombobulation, yet a few more weeks before the second lets our lasts be present with now. I’m not sure that has any relevance to the following experience at 4 Bells, just something I thought was interesting. The passage of time is different for lots of people depending on what is most treasured to them; business folks talk of quarters and fiscal dates instead of Gregorian, adherents to certain religions and philosophies are on a different year or recognize the beginning of theirs differently.
What I feel is probably universal about time, and likely a clumsy indirect paraphrase of a statement attributed to Albert Einstein, is: Time apart from those you are most fond of seems epochal in the beginning, then the attention to the passage fades to imperceptibility, until you’re reunited and you remember that epochal feeling, that too long time; then your eye-blink of a reunion is over until the next era of absence graciously ends.
I’ve mentioned my willingness and fondness of volunteering, and how that extends to helping my friends before, such was this impetus of this evening at 4 Bells. We moved, then we gathered to dine. We were treated to spectacular hospitality and it was an evening of firsts. The first meal shared amongst many of us, and the first experience with raw oysters for some. It was a fun night.
Oysters Casino with pecorino, bacon, and rapini: The last time I was at 4 Bells with some friends, to celebrate the advent of Rachel’s birthday week, I got to take a lovely picture of these oysters, but wasn’t able to try them myself. This time I was fortunate enough to sample them, and I must admit my previous dining cohorts were not wrong in their effusive praising of this starter. If you’re not a fan of fried things and can’t bring yourself to try the Oysters de Jonghe at The Strip Club Meat & Fish in St. Paul, these are another acceptable beginner’s bivalve experience.
Boiled Peanut Hummus with Aged Cheddar Crackers, and Crisp Vegetables: Once again, a surprisingly good hummus. The crackers are the real star with the hummus itself being great in a supporting role.
Baby Octopus with Achiote, Serrano, Orange, Pepita, & Hearts of Palm: Still great and thankfully not from the same palm as palm oil, I was seriously conflicted about eating hearts of palm until I found out they were from a different tree than the one that leads to the destruction of orangutan habitats. I’m still slightly conflicted eating cephalopods given their puzzle solving abilities, it’s something I’ll have to examine deeper in the future.
Snapper Ceviche with Leche De Tigre, Chili Relish, Pine Nuts, Yogurt, & Mint: Still one of my favorite dishes on the menu, I’ve had it and the octopus every time I’ve been to the restaurant. The (not pictured) crackers that go with this are really good too.
Oysters On The Half Shell: I think I misheard the type, but we were told they were from Rhode Island. These were Kat’s first experience with raw oysters after first experiencing the fried at Strip Club at Chef JD and our friend Andrew’s recommendation, and then grilled at 4 Bell’s sister restaurant Butcher and the Boar. To say she enjoyed them would be an understatement. They were really good, sweet and firm. The house sauces are great and recommended if you’re not into naked oysters.
Oysters Rockerfeller with Chicken Fat and Sourdough: A novel and solid take on the classic, the sourdough crouton brought a texture that contrasted nicely with the suppleness of the oyster.
Pan Roasted Grouper with Sweet & Sour Cabbage, Fennel, Apple, and Buttermilk Curd: Great dish. Nice firm flesh, great crispy surface. Missing a few callouts on the menu for it, the jalapeño added a nice heat and the pistachios a firmer crunch than the cabbage. Would definitely order again.
Grilled Skirt Steak with Braised Cipollini, Roasted Mushroom, Preserved Fig: 4Bells tries to do a lot of things - seafood, Southern inspired cuisine, and apparently a steakhouse - surprisingly it does them better than you’d expect. This ended up being a table favorite. I was hesitant at first because I wasn’t super impressed with the pork chop on my first visit, but this was really good.
Whole Bird Southern Fried Chicken with Honey Butter, Gravy, Delta Sauce and Hot Sauce: I’d had the bird on my recent visit and I wasn’t overly impressed, but one of the members in my dining party on that night assured me that the times she’d had it previously it was a great experience so I was willing to give it another shot, I’m glad I did. This time the bird had a nice crunch, and crispier skin, the meat was still great and full of moisture. Pairing it with the sauces is a great decadent experience. It’s not Revival, but it’s still pretty good.
Biscuits: what else is there to say? One of the better buttermilk layer style biscuits in town and they come with a great butter.
Pimento (Puh-men-uh) Mac & Cheese: interesting, but still not my favorite mac & cheese in town. I do like the popped sorghum’s use as a textural component, but wonder about the pasta shape choice.
Bourbon Braised Collard Greens: I’m going to have to agree with a local food critic that these are a little to sweet for me. The addition of the walnuts and cheese, since they’re not listed on the menu, make for an unexpected dish.
Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes & Gravy: Solid, if you like mashed potatoes I recommend them.
Carolina Gold Dirty Rice: Good, but not sure I’d save space for it again, for a similar dish I’d go for J. D. Hoyt’s Buddy Bowl, or Revival’s Hoppin’ John.
Apple Pie with Cinnamon Ice Cream: The pie is good with a nice flaky pastry crust, but the real star of this one is the ice cream. Tasting of red hots, the spicy cinnamon in a frozen form is a contrast of flavors and temperatures that is quite refreshing.
Gingersnap Bread Pudding with Fig Jam, Butterscotch, & Whipped Cream: This was great, while the aforementioned cinnamon ice cream was a great component of a dish, this one worked well all together. I think everybody went back for multiple spoonfuls of this one. We made short work of it.
I’m not a vegetarian (thankfully to me), but I was once, so I try to empathize with some of their frustrations. The Dirty Rice has meat that’s not listed on the menu - none of the sides have descriptions, and while it doesn’t affect me, I’m guessing diners and servers get tired of the back and forth over what dishes are or are not vegetarian. I have some vegan friends too, but unless the restaurant advertises itself as such or heavily vegetarian, I know that’s going to be a tough one, so don’t hold restaurants too harshly to that light. But, unless you’re familiar with the dish, just a name won’t allow a conscious eater to make an informed decision without excessive conversation with their server, it seems inefficient and time consuming to me.
That being said, 4 Bells is growing on me. Great oysters, great cocktails, some great dishes, and some really good food even if it’s at times a little inconsistent visit to visit. I think they’re hitting their stride and see myself going there more often.